Working With Mistakes

My... pillowcase?

When you work with crafts you quickly realize that even the most experienced person makes mistakes, and if you're like me, you aren't the most experienced person.

Most of what I'm doing on this dollhouse is new stuff to me, taking crafts that I've played with before (like crocheting) and adjusting them to work with a dollhouse.  The only things I've crocheted before are lap quilts in a simple straight lined weave.  I decided this time I would attempt a circular weave for the pillow cases.  Lets just say it didn't work - but out came a pretty cute looking hat small enough for Barbie.

So when a cut goes wrong, the paint spills, or something seems to horribly go awry take a step back and try to see it as something else.  What could this be used for?  Could you adjust a few things and have it work out in a different way?  Being flexible is one of the most important things when working on crafts.
  

Sweetheart Table

RATED: 2 for Difficulty 

This piece was perhaps the easiest I have done so far, but it also took many small steps and time.  In the end I think its pretty adorable, but I'm concerned it is a bit fragile and the second its stepped on or given too much pressure it will break - so I'd recommend it for an older child's dollhouse.

Carve the top center of the heart (or your shape).

What You Will Need:
3 Wooden Cut Outs
 ~2 for the "legs" (Same size)
 ~1 for the table top
Wood Glue
A straight edged knife
A "V" edged knife (Optional)
Sand Paper
Paint

Carve the bottom center of the heart (or your shape).

The hearts were $0.25 each at JoAnn Fabrics - most craft stores have simple cut outs of crafting wood for really cheap.  Since I had the items I needed from other projects from the dollhouse this means that I added $0.75 to the price of my dollhouse.  Not bad for a cute item to finish my desires for this little room.

The wood I chose is very slim, maybe 1/4 inch thick.  

Start by carving a slim straight line in the top of one heart and on the base of the other.

These take a bit of time because if you make the cuts too wide they will fall apart.

Widen it with the "V" Tool.

That said you can use some wood glue if you want to add a bit of extra security or if they don't fit perfectly together.

I forced mine once I got most of it done and it worked pretty well, it was a tight squeeze but its nice and sturdy now.

I found my "V" tool was best to use to take out the material quickly once I etched it with my line blade.  It was also nice to take away some rough edges once I had the piece near the right thickness of the wood.

Get the fit snug and make sure it stands nice and flat. 

Next test the fit,  I slid them together several times to find the snug fit, its important to make sure the legs are level or the table will wobble.  When you get close simply sand down a bit and wedge the pieces together.  I found I could apply quite a bit of pressure to these little pieces and in the end they fit pretty snugly.

Sand it smooth, and glue it together as much as you want.



Next paint.  I have already created the patchwork quilt, and knew I wanted the room to be in the soft blues and mauve-pinks, so choosing the color was pretty simple.  Since my paints didn't match perfectly I ended up mixing.

If you have never mixed your own paint it can be quite a challenge, and making sure you make enough so you don't have to start over can be just as frustrating.  We all know the basics, red and blue make purple, blue and yellow make green, yellow and red make orange.  But adding bits of white, gray, black, or even brown can add warmth or a tint you didn't know was possible.

My mauve color inspiration. 

When I start mixing my acrylics I settle down for the "Long haul" unless you have some way of keeping them moist with retardants, humidity, or wet paint boxes your paints will dry out if you haven't got your projects ready to paint before hand.

Which means have your wood sanded and prepped, clean it with a damp paper-towel and make sure its nice and dry.

Then if I have a specific color in mind (In this case matching it to the mauve color on the quilt.) I would look and decide what colors probably made it up.  In this case I knew there was a red closer to the purple scale than the orange.  I also knew the gray around it complimented it, so I guessed it was mixed a very light gray blue gray instead of pure white.

Pretty fair match on color I think. 

So I took my colors and using a paper plate simply squirted three separate piles of paint around the edges of it.  Why didn't I just pool it all together in the central part of the plate you ask?  I had no clue how much of what color I needed, and putting separate piles allow for you to mix and match without reopening the tubes or having to scrap it entirely and start over.  Then I took a plastic knife (If you have a paint blade awesome, but a plastic knife works.) and I took a big chunk of my red and some of my gray and white and started in the mix.

Adding small portions I built up until I was pretty close to the color I wanted.  I made sure to use a bit more than I thought I would need to use because I wasn't priming my table and it would soak up more of the paint then if I was or if I was painting on a prepped canvas.  Also with acrylics when they dry they tend to dry lighter than when wet, so keep that in mind when mixing.

File the tip down to be flat to hold the table top.

The other fun with acrylics is you can use them as a paint, as a wash (or glaze), or as a water-color simply by adding more water.  Since the wood on these wasn't particularly "grained" I chose to use it as a paint and while I was careful to do it smoothly with enough water that it wasn't really bubbled anywhere, it looks thick like a paint instead of as a wash.  (More on that in the bed-making tutorial.)

You want to make sure its fully dry before you work with it again or you will get fingerprints on it.  I usually wait over night.

Once dry flatten the top by filing (I used a rip-file my husband informed me) to take the tip of the hearts off making it flat enough for the table top to fit on top of.  (See the photo above.)  If you look closely at the top you will see where my wood flaked a bit due to the rugged file.  If you paint after this you can prevent that, but it was barely noticeable when creating and once glued its completely not.  But I'm telling you what I learned (haha). 

Glue the top to the base.  Clamp it - or it will most likely dry crooked - mine partially did and I had to add more and adjust it.

Once finished you can embellish it however you'd like.  I am still debating on adding a few hearts to the legs.

In the end this is my little table, about three inches tall with a nice flat table top that can hold teddies or lamps or clocks or whatever knickknacks you want to finish your room with.

The finished piece. 

***You could easily adjust this piece by buying wooden flowers, stars, trees, circles, squares etc to better fit the decor of your dollhouse's room.***

The Patchwork Quilt

RATED: 3 for Difficulty

Ok - I apologize for the seriously long away.  We had a very exciting month of Oct. and it prevented me from much work on the dollhouse, let alone writing about it.  But we are finally back to it (with only 7 full weeks left until Christmas, ahhhhh!) So you can expect a lot of stuff coming out here in the next two months. :)  (I also apologize for the lack of photos on this particular blog - I created the quilt and pillows before I decided to do the Dollighted! blog.)

One of the very first pieces I did was a patchwork quilt.  Now I will be the first one to admit I am not a quilter.  I don't know how the "experts" do it or what the official method is, but the one I used worked pretty good I thought, and turned out well.

I started by cutting 1 inch by 1 inch squares. The more accurate you are in your squares the easier this will go, so take your time.  I used a piece of the stiff fabric to make a pattern and simply cut them out.

Then I arranged my pattern.  My grid is 4x6, with a one inch border, but I recommend if you're using 1 inch squares to do at least a 5x7 with a 1 inch border for adult Barbies.  This one is intended for the "sweetheart kids" room and only hits Barbie at the bust.

Once I had them laid out I stitched them together into columns, one square at a time with my sewing machine.  I started in the upper left hand corner and sewed the square right below it on, then the square right below that.  When I had 1 column done I did the second column, then the third, and fourth.  I stitched them all together after, going slow and steady.  When I was finished with that measured out 2 columns (for the sides) and 2 rows (for the top and bottom.  I stitched them directly to the squares, and then stitched diagonally to each corner.  I sewed on a back being sure to flip it inside out and then stuffed it and hand sewed it shut.  It is "tied" with embroidery floss to keep the stuffing in place.

The heart-shaped pillows I sewed front faces out so that I could have the little "fringe" edges. The rectangle I simply reversed and hand stitched on one side.  The cylinder was a rectangle of fabric rolled up with two circles hand stitched on the ends.  It took me about two hours from start to finish for the whole bedspread, and looks like I spent days.

Collecting and Using Scraps

As soon as I discovered my baby was going to be a girl I started dreaming up a dollhouse for her.  The dollhouse I'd played with while I was young was AWESOME and I wanted something just as awesome for her, full of magical promise and fun-filled days and nights.  So I started collecting supplies.

Being a crafter anyways, I have paintbrushes and paints, a sewing machine, tons of fabric and ribbons, paper and stickers...  The list goes on and on.  But the fun thing about a DIY dollhouse that's meant to be played with is the imagination and its scale.  When you finish working on that baby blanket for your cousin there's always scraps of fabric left... so make a quilt for the dolls.  When you finish working on that shelf for your garage keep the little scraps of wood and look at them and imagine. 

Suddenly towels or raggedy wash clothes can become little teddy bears, old pajama bottoms blankets, chunks of wood can be carved into everything from wooden spoons to bowls to chairs, that old cologne bottle is great for a lamp (that one's coming soon just to let you know hehe!)

Looking at things from the outside of a box can be difficult, but the more you do it the easier it will become.  

That's where this little piece came from.  A little unpromising chunk of wood cut from the curve of the child's bed.

Start with a small chunk of wood and work with its general shape, in this case I immediately saw a house.  Sand it down, and paint it with acrylic paints.   Seal it with polyurethane, and you can get something like these.



A tip for painting TINY little objects - use a brush with only a few bristles, if you want to add depth paint first with one color and then a second color over (note the dark blue edge on the door to the right and the slight brown behind the red door below.)

The Braided Rug

RATED: 2 for difficulty

I have been torn with putting this particular post up as frankly there are dozens of Youtube videos on braided rug making and the principles are the same, and my husband looked at the colors I had chosen and said it looked like vomit. (Haha eww!)  But in the end I think its cute and will compliment my daughter's child-sized sweetheart bedroom.

Making a braided rug is very simple and is usually made from scraps you have around the house (I've seen everything from blue jeans to towels used)  All you need are scissors, a needle and thread and fabric.  I chose a simple cotton that I used to make my daughter's dollhouse patchwork quilt.

Start by cutting your fabric into thin strips - mine were between 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch.  If you cut it wider than that the braid will simply be thicker, if you use a heavier fabric again the braid will be thicker, attempt to make them relatively uniform as it will make the braid look even and nice.  If you are using a shorter width, you can make a longer strip by "going around the bend" (see the picture to the right.

You will need at least three lengths of the fabric, and realize that the fabric will shrink during braiding and you will most likely want at least 36 inches of braid per rug.  Once you have completed your three lengths of fabric secure them together with a needle and thread, a few quick stitches should be all that's needed.

Now set to braiding - if you have a little girl odds are you've braided, if not its simple, pull apart the three strands, outer right side goes over the middle and becomes the middle, outer left side goes over the middle and becomes the middle.  Outer right, outer left, over and over again, always going over or always going under (they give different looks don't mix them.)  The braiding I found went relatively quick, but if you find you need to take a break during it a simple straight pin will hold it nicely.

If you want to check for the size of the rug simply wind it up. Mine is an oval and started with an inch or so length folded in two and then wound around, you can try other designs as well, squares or circles look nice too.  If you discover it isn't quite as long as you'd like simply fold in extra fabric (See the photo on the right.) If you are having trouble folding it simply add an extra stitch or two to hold it while you braid,

Once you have finished braiding simply pin the end (clothes pins work too, but with a doll rug its a little bulky.) And wind it up, stitching every third or forth knot.  This is by far the longest part of the process, but its straight forward and simple.

Once finished simply tuck the end under the side of the rug and sew it on with a few extra stitches. Voila! You have a doll rug. :)

Elegant Stained Glass

RATED: 3 For Difficulty

What dream dollhouse would be complete without elegant double doors and stained "glass"?  The most difficult thing about this project is working with the hand carving wood tools, if you have no experience a simple design may be best.  I apologize for the lack of photos during the carving stage - I wasn't planning on creating this blog when I carved it!

Cut and sand the doors. 

Start by cutting the doors from the wood of the dollhouse.  (For more details visit the Planning Your Dollhouse article.)  We did a simple, arched pair of doors.  Sand them with a power sander to ensure the edges aren't sharp or chipped and you won't be getting splinters while you hand carve the piece.

Draw out the design you want to place on your doors.  I liked the curly-q hearts I found on one door and simplified that.  (I Googled elegant doors under the images tab for inspiration.)  Transfer the drawing or pattern out on the wood with carbon paper or using the old "graphite on back trace front" trick, then carve, carve, carve.  Mine probably took me about 6-8 hours per door over the course of a week or two, I did it while listening to reruns.

Draw the Pattern, Carve, Sand, Stain, Dry.

If you have no experience with wood carving it's fun but also can be a bit overwhelming - use some scrap and get a feel for your tools before digging in.  Straight-knives are great for the edges of your design, tracing the design with the straight knife will help protect your piece while you're removing material.  V-knives and U-knives are probably the easiest for removing a lot of material, and the Planar helps to remove the bumpies at the base.  Some bumps are nice though as it adds a bit of dimension, texture, and catches light differently. 

I would certainly not consider myself an expert (I've only carved 2 - 3 things before this piece.) but I feel I achieved a pretty product with my "novice" skills.  Remember this is a dollhouse and your child will love the detail you put into it.  

Sand the edges down once you have the pattern carved into the piece.  I found wrapping my sandpaper around the tip of a pencil let me get into the tiny edges without getting frustrated. 

My favorite Acrylic paint.

Once that is said and done, stain it with a nice color.  I recommend Minwax because it goes on smoothly and easily.  

Let it dry fully before working with it again.      

Once dry choose the color you want the "stained glass" to be.  I asked my daughter if she wanted red, silver, or gold, and she decided gold.  

Liquitex is by far my favorite acrylic brand, they are rich and creamy and hold color well.  I have found some of the cheaper brands to be clumpy and dry out faster...not to mention I've had several tubes explode on me from simple use, which is frustrating, messy, and a waste.

I simply poured a pool onto my wax paper and using a small flat brush painted the crevices in my carved doors. 

Using a small flat brush paint your "background." 

 My gold showed a tiny bit of the dark stain through, but I liked that as it added dimension to it, the parts that showed through it worst I added a second coat once dried.

Knowing that I was using Dimensional Mod Podge after painting I wasn't too concerned about getting the gold smooth and finished, I was more concerned about getting the brilliance and tones I wanted.

If you accidentally get some gold on your wooden "frame" take a clean brush and using water dab it off - the stain is also a sealant and it should wipe away cleanly.  (Alternatively you can use your finger.)

I wanted it super shiny, so I did about 3 layers on my flatter portions, allowing the shine to really stand out.

Dry completely and seal it with Mod Podge, dry again.

I completed both doors before working with the Mod Podge as I wanted them to a bit of time to dry.  I have since found out that in order to protect against "Cloudy" or "Milky" discoloration in your DM, you should ensure that the acryllic is completely dried and sealed with regular Mod Podge.

Mod Podge: Dimensional Magic (DM)

Simply squirt out the Dimensional Magic in the design.

If you have never worked with Mod Podge, its a very simple paint (or squirt) and dry product.  Mod Podge: Dimensional Magic (commonly referred to as DM) is especially awesome because it gives you that 3 dimensional "glass-like" look without the toxicity and frustration of resins.  The simple ease of use and non-toxic recipe made it worth the "risk" of cloudy for me.  Another note - keep it in a dry "non-humid" climate as I have read that it may crack with humidity.    

Applying the DM is super easy, it comes with a nice sharp tip and is awesome at staying where you put it.  Simply squirt out the milky "goo" in the shape you want, with the wood frame its really simple.

The most difficult things about DM is the bubbles, you want to take a sharp pin and pop them rather quickly, as the longer they sit the quicker they develop a film and are harder to pop.  It did not effect the look of my piece to poke and prod at them for about 10 minutes.

Pop any bubbles with a sewing needle

Some bubbles were simply stubborn, I had a lot of difficulties popping a few because they had nothing but the DM to push against and were tiny.  I finally ended up turning my pin around and using the ball pulled the bubbles out.  I did the smaller sections first and then the outer sides.

The "experts" recommend lining the edges and filling in the center, I found that simple enough and followed their lead.

I will offer this tip - I found my DM "shrunk" some as it dried.  If you look closely at the photo on the left, you can see the DM is actually puffed up above the wooden frame some (note the shine on the left of the heart) when it dried it has become concave - I'm fine with it, it actually looks more "real".  But I am debating on a second coat to make it closer to flat.

Fill in the entire design - these doors took almost all of the 2 oz. in my dimensional magic, but they are large carvings.

Finish with the design.  Wait until it dries clear before moving.

It is important that you let them dry completely without touching them.  (I have a finger print where my 2 year old couldn't wait haha.)

It is also important to have them on a flat surface to dry or the Mod Podge will pool to one side.

Once dry they look like the photo below, very shiny, and nicely sealed with a smooth plastic-like surface.

When we have finished staining and assembling the dollhouse I will hinge them and put them into place, of course showing pictures of that as well.

Thanks for Visiting!

                                               

The finished doors, simply waiting to be put into the dollhouse.

A Child's Puzzle Mat

RATED: 4 For Difficulty

This adorable puzzle mat is great for your child's infant, toddler, or child fashion doll.  Made of 2 millimeters of foam its an adorable addition, though is probably for an older child or collector, as the foam can be damaged with dings.

The most difficult part about making this mat is getting the pieces to fit "just right," it takes patience and time to get it down, otherwise its simply cutting it out.  Because of that difficulty I rate it a 4 (because it takes time and can be tedious and should be close to exact).

The foam is available at JoAnn's for $1.49 per sheet of glittery 2 millimeter foam.  (There is also sticker backed foam available if you want it permanently attached to the floor - my daughter loves puzzles so I chose not to do that.)

You will need:

Scissors

An X-Acto Knife

A Pen

2-4 mm Foam sheets

Patience and Time

1) Its easiest to start with a corner piece and simply draw a puzzle out and then cut it out (I found scissors easier than the X-Acto knife.) .

2) Once you have the finished piece cut out set it aside and using the full sheet minus the piece trace (very snugly) one edge of the puzzle on the back of the puzzle sheet (make sure flat edges line up.)  *Note: Make sure that you're putting the sheet front side to back side (glitter to dull) or your puzzle will not fit together properly (some pieces will be facing backwards if you do it wrong.)

3) If you are "diagonally matching colors" as I did (notice the blue bordered by 2 pinks in the bottom right corner) then go ahead and trace the opposite side as well.  Then proceed to draw a new puzzle piece from there.

4) To cut it make sure you are cutting it on the outside edge of the puzzle (see the photograph above).  Leave yourself a little space even to trim later for a snug fit.  If you used the puzzle piece to trace you will have to cut inside the lines.

5) Ensure the fit is snug.  If they are too big then using the X-Acto knife shave them off.  If they are too small then you have 2 options.  One say "Oh well" and continue on, two re-cut a slightly bigger piece.

Planning a Dollhouse

When I was about 12 my dad built my sister (and I who was technically getting too old but was completely in love with it anyways) a dollhouse, six beautiful rooms of wood.  I got wallpaper books and old rug samples from the local Home Depot, I painted and glued... I Loved It.

So the second I found out I was having a little girl I started begging my husband for a dollhouse for her.  He laughed and said, "can we have the baby first dear, I think she'd like a name before she'd like a dollhouse."

She-she is turning 3 in October, and we've decided we'll make her a dollhouse for Christmas.  My hubby, ever the perfectionist in planning when it comes to building insisted he know exactly what I wanted.  And thus the following sketches were created.  (Please pardon the poor perspective lines.) 

Some mild adjustments have been made (the depth of the house is now 12 inches instead of 14 inches as originally planned to save money for the better wood.)

I designed my dollhouse in my head and with paper and pen first, but my husband wanted it "even more clear" so I went to the computer program Paint.  Yes really, paint does scale!  I drew it out in minutes, and we discussed at length what materials we'd use and designs we'd incorporate.

The actual construction has also been broken down into parts because I don't want my daughter to know about it (Christmas present after all!) So I'll be doing a lot of the actual assembly and finishing work in late November.

I have a rough time line of what I want done by when in my head and have told my husband (who is helping me with the wood working) the specific dates he needs to know.

We started actual construction by doing the two outer walls as they had the most detail with the actual piece and there is no point in building a bunch of furniture with no house!  Each wall has a window on the second floor and a door on the first, and being the nut I am I insisted on carving the doors to add that extra pop.

THE OUTER WALLS

WHAT WE USED:
Skil Cordless Jig Saw
Hand Power Sander
$8 piece of 72x12x1 inch board ripped in two 36x12x1 inch boards
A Ruler
A Tape Measure
A Compass (For the rounded archway of the French doors)
2 Hand Clamps

Together we measured out the dimensions we needed on the wall using a pencil.  Note the one inch width of the board is measured on the walls so we can see the placement of the floors.  If you want a house that's 42 inches tall it will lose a bit on each floor because of the wood thickness.  We then found the center and built the doors out from that. Originally I had them measured for 8 inches wide, 4 inches per door, however with the reduced dimensions we dropped them to 3 inch wide doors, 6 inches total.  Because we are building for fashion dolls (Barbies) who stand 11.5 inches tall we did our doors 12.5 inches tall.

The doors Scott (my gorgeous hubby!) is cutting in the photo to the right are the french doors that lead to the living room (or the fancy room, ball room, throne room, or whatever she imagines!) and are cut with our Skil Jig Saw, he took particular care in the curves, easing it slowly.  (The black hose is the shop vac picking up the dust so he can see the lines easier.)

On the opposite side we did a dutch door that will go from the kitchen to the garden.  A dutch door is a door that opens in two pieces, the upper piece and the lower piece each on their own hinges.  (See the link for an example).  We also used the Jig on it, cutting the door in half upon removal of the wall.  To avoid a large knot we shifted that door towards the front of the dollhouse.

The windows were a tad bit trickier as Scottie did a plunge cut on them, on each side as turning corners was impossible and we wanted the window in the center of a single piece of wood.  It took a little bit of time, but they came out cleanly and easily.

Also in order to avoid knots in the wood we adjusted the sizes of our windows.

The final step that night (before painting and detail work etc.) was sanding.  We used a 1/4 sheet power sander similar to this one.  Since the wood was new we didn't have to remove any stain or lacquers and it took only a few minutes to "buff out" the corners and sharp edges.  We chose a nicer wood so that I would never have to worry about my daughter getting splinters.

We now have two "walls," four "doors," and two "windows" cut and sanded and ready for assembly.  Both walls were cut from a single 72 inch board at 36 inches.  The board was around $7.50 I think.



***Psst!!  The window pieces that we cut from the two walls have gone toward the doll bed we are making for the toddler/child room, and only required a bit of touching up and trimming.  Never throw out chunks of wood as that bed is now free!***

Dollighted Your Visiting!

Welcome to Dollighted!  I am currently in full build mode on my daughter's dollhouse which I plan on giving her for Christmas 2012.  We have a strict "goal budget" of $100 dollars for the entire project as that is what you will spend on a plastic/cardboard Barbie Doll house.

I have had requests to post "how to's" and show my progress from friends and family, so I figured we'd start this blog.  Hopefully it will turn out as adorable as my head pictures it. :)

The ideas on these pages are my own or are inspired and compiled from around the web, especially helpful are Pinterest, Youtube, and Etsy.  I will be linking some things online at my etsy store as well, and in some cases my inspiration from others.

In the cases where I am buying something premade (like the toy chest I will be uploading in a few days) I will be including how much I have spent on it and where I got it.  Otherwise you can assume it came from my closet of craft supplies.  

In case you're wondering what is in my closet of supplies I'll list some supplies below (And each blog will include a list as well) They're pretty typical, and you most likely have most in your closet.  Some projects will include a difficulty rating as well - for example I have carved my doors, but for someone who has never used carving tools it may be more difficult, and some things, like Mod Podge Dimensional Magic, may look hard but tend to be pretty easy.

My Tools: 
Sewing Machine
Embroidery Needles
Embroidery Ring
Straight Pins
Jigsaw
Circular Saw
Belt Sander (Sandpaper will work but takes longer)
Hand Sander
Miniature Cookie Cutters
Toothpaste cap (the ridged kind...yes really lol)
Wood Carving tools

My Supplies: 
Fabric
Ribbons
Mod Podge
Mod Podge Dimensional Magic
Polymer clay
Pastels
2x4's (wood)
Balsa wood
Dowel Rods
Glitter
Various pendants, wood / metal
Old broken jewelry
Rocks
Twigs